Shelf Road

One of Colorado’s largest sport climbing destinations, Shelf Road offers a multitude of stellar rock climbs on some fascinating Limestone cliffs. These 30-140 foot cliffs were deposited in the Helena Canyon area around 500 million years ago during the Ordovician Period. Keep your eye out for sea creature fossils embedded in the bulletproof stone!

Shelf is great at any time of year. With so many cliff options you can find ample sun or shade climbs at any of the major climbing areas. All areas have an approach of at least a 1/4 mile or more, so wear good hiking shoes that will stand up to the cactus of the high desert. Also, due to higher temperatures in the summer, always bring a little more water than you think you will need. Watch out for rattlesnakes in the summer and always wear a helmet because even though many of the climbs get a lot of use and have been cleaned, loose rock exists!

Shelf Road’s Ideal Winter Conditions

Shelf Road stands out thanks to its remarkable location. Cañon City and Fremont County reside within a “banana belt”—a unique climate zone recognized for mild winters and abundant sunshine. Averaging more than 250 sunny days per year and winter highs typically hovering in the 40s to 50s°F (4–10°C), Shelf Road offers prime climbing conditions when other Colorado climbing areas are buried in snow or simply too cold.

High-clearance vehicles are recommended for reaching the Shelf Road Recreation Area. In the winter, use four-wheel drive.

Enjoy yourself, embrace the sunshine and the stone, and cherish every day on the rock.

Shelf Road Classics 

Below are some classic climbing routes that can help you figure out where to get started at Shelf Road. The numbers next to each route name represent the difficulty graded using the Yosemite Decimal System. Each grade has a prefix of class 5, and the higher the number and letter that follow, the more difficult the climb. The general area where you’ll find the route is listed next, followed by the specific wall within that area.

• LaCholla Jackson (5.8+) – The Bank > Cactus Cliff
• Lumina (5.9) – The Bank > The Dark Side
• Dihedrus (5.10b) – The Bank > Cactus Cliff
• Enchanted Porkfist (5.11a) – The Bank > The Dark Side
• #1 Super Guy (5.11a) – The Bank > Piggy Bank
• Lost Planet Airmen (5.11b) – The Bank > 2150 Wall
• Back to the Future (5.11b) – The Bank > Back to the Future
• Ejection Seat (5.12b) – The Bank > The Gym
• Silverado (5.11b) – Sand Gulch > Contest Wall
• Montage (5.12d) – Sand Gulch > The Gallery

Rock Climbing Safety Tips 

• Climb within your ability level. Conditions and required skills can vary significantly from one route to the next. Unsure whether you or your group is prepared? A qualified guide or professional training is the safest choice.
• Double check your anchors, knots, harnesses, rope, and all other safety equipment—including fixed gear—before you leave the ground.
• BLM reserves the right to remove bolts in locations where they are prohibited or installed without proper authorization.
  Note: BLM does not maintain or inspect bolts or any fixed climbing gear.
• Plan ahead: be ready for injury, weather changes, or delays. Set and follow a turnaround time, and share your trip plans with someone.
• Know your route. Familiarize yourself with the climbing area and track your location with a map, compass, or altimeter. Bring the right equipment for your route and know how to use it.
• Communication: agree on commands and have nonverbal signals to use amid wind or other noise.
• Always wear a helmet, no matter your skill level. 
• Check the weather forecast before your climb and note any changing conditions during it; turn around if the weather worsens.
• Emergencies: cell service is unreliable. Be prepared for self-rescue. Loudly and clearly call out for help if needed. If you can call 911, provide injury information, party size, formation/route names, nearest landmark, and a place to meet rescuers. Report all climbing injuries.

Keep It Gorgeous 

We promote responsible climbing and the stewardship of our crags, trails, and open spaces, as well as the cultural and historic sites that make this place unique. Following Leave No Trace principles helps keep these landscapes healthy for future climbers.

Do Colorado Right Leave No Trace Principles

1. 1. Plan Ahead & Prepare
   2. Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces
   3. Dispose of Waste Properly
   4. Leave What You Find
   5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
   6. Respect Wildlife
   7. Be Considerate of Others

Campgrounds

Camping is available at The Bank and Sand Gulch campgrounds. Certain sites can be reserved in advance, while others are first-come, first-served. Some reservable sites may also be available on a walk-up basis if not already booked. At times, campgrounds may revert to a fully first-come, first-served basis due to seasonal demand or management needs.

The Bank Campground

• Dirt road in is steep and rough
• 33 individual sites 
  • Limited to 2 vehicles and 8 people per site
• 2 group sites
  • Limited to 4 vehicles and 20 people per site
• 4 vault toilets
• Not available: drinking water, trash service, electric hookups
• Leave no trace—take your trash with you upon leaving

Sand Gulch Campground

• Road into campground has some ruts and bumps
• 29 individual sites
  • Limited to 2 vehicles and 8 people per site
• 2 group sites
  • Limited to 4 vehicles and 20 people per site

• 2 vault toilets
• Not available: drinking water, trash service, electric hookups 
• Leave no trace—take your trash with you upon leaving

Be a Respectful Camper

• Practice Leave No Trace Principles, and be respectful of other users. 
• Do not leave dog poop bags lying around. Pack them out to dispose of them properly. 
• Keep your dog on a leash.
• Pay for your campsite and post your fee stub immediately upon occupying your site, to secure the site and avoid any confusion with other incoming campers. Campground fees go directly back into managing the recreation area.
• Always vacate your campsite by checkout time to allow ample opportunity for the next party to check in. Gear or supplies left after checkout time could be mistaken for abandoned property and collected by the campground host.
• The BLM manages The Bank and Sand Gulch campgrounds primarily with rock climbers as the target demographic, and it is the objective to provide an exceptional recreation experience.

How to Spend Your Downtime

Cañon City is well known for its incredible climbing opportunities, yet there is plenty to explore when you are off the wall. These winter and summer itineraries offer easy ways to fill your rest days or times with good food, local sights, and laid-back adventures around town. 

WINTER ITINERARY

Day 1

MORNING
Stop by Cafe Belay with your crew for some freshly roasted coffee and breakfast. They have the gear, guidebooks, and local knowledge, and stoke you need for adventure at the beautiful limestone cliffs of Shelf Road.

AFTERNOON
Warm up at Desert Reef Hot Springs or explore downtown Cañon City shops and cafes.

EVENING
Catch dinner and local brews at a Cañon City restaurant before strolling historic Main Street. Take a look at our business directory for a full list of savory places to dine.

Day 2

MORNING
Ease into your day with coffee and a hearty breakfast. 

AFTERNOON
Weather and temperature permitting, take a leisurely hike at Tunnel Drive, where you’ll catch hypnotic views of the Arkansas River and the surrounding canyon.

EVENING
Over dinner in downtown Cañon City, toast to a day well spent while planning your return trip. Browse our business directory to find exactly what you’re craving.

SUMMER ITINERARY

Day 1

MORNING
Grab coffee and a bite before heading to Florence to hunt for finds in the antique shops. 

AFTERNOON
Stroll the Arkansas Riverwalk and enjoy the crushed gravel path that follows the river for over seven miles. 

EVENING
Unwind at a local bar while you swap stories of your climbing adventures. 

Day 2

MORNING
Enjoy a peaceful cup of joe at a Cañon City or Florence coffee shop.

AFTERNOON
Drive a portion of the Gold Belt National Scenic Byway.

EVENING
Head to Skyline Drive for a panoramic sunset across the valley.

Mountain Project – Shelf Road

Mountain Project provides route info, grades, maps, and climber comments, making it the go-to online resource for U.S. climbers.

Shelf Road Rock – 3rd Edition

The Shelf Road Rock guide offers routes, maps, and local climbing insights.

Eat & Drink

Find dining, cafes, and bars across the Royal Gorge Region.

Lodging

Find lodging and plan your stay.

Check out our Shelf Road Illustrated Rock Climbing Guide here (coming soon), or request one by mail here (coming soon).

Tanner Dome Crags

Approximately 11 miles south of Cañon City, Tanner Dome and adjacent crags are located on the west side of the scenic Oak Creek Grade. With over 80 routes on incredible granite, Tanner Dome is a wonderful area offering single and multi-pitch climbing to suit expert and beginner climbers’ sport-climbing urges.

Climbs range from 40 to over 200 feet. A 70-meter rope and 14 quickdraws will get you up the majority of the climbs and enable you to link some two-pitch climbs into one long granite cruise! Some beautiful mixed and trad lines also exist at the Tanner Dome area, so if you’re willing to drag the trad rack up the hill, you’ll be rewarded with some four-star routes to play on.

Newlin Creek

Tucked into the Wet Mountains behind the quaint little town of Florence, Newlin Creek offers a wonderful alpine setting with some intriguing granite boulders and spires peeking out from behind the dense forest. Not much has been written about this area yet but it has some good stone if you go hunting around with some gear and a sense of adventure. A 70-meter rope, 14 quickdraws, and a small trad rack for the mixed routes is a recipe for a good time! There are also a few nice boulder problems in the area for bouldering. Be aware of equestrian riders in the area. This spot is best enjoyed during the warmer months as it holds snow well in the valley during winter months, but be careful of snakes when it gets warmer.

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